Still trying to catch up

Anyone for a little Soju, Andong, Korea

Ever since we received news of Dads accident, I've lost some incentive and/or run out of time to get up to date. I'm still a day behind.

How about soju on tap? Andong, Korea

Firstly news on Dad, we las headed about an hour ago he had been in surgery for four hours. Since the injury is above the artificial knee joint, there is probably some extensive rebuilding to be done around the join from metal to bone. Our thoughts are with him as he will likely be quite sore after surgery.

Now Tuesday proved to be quite emotional for those that went to pyeontaek, especially if you read Monday's blog where those seeking to view files were disappointed not to learn anything new.

Some of the donation made to Pyeontaek. We also made donations to ESWS Seoul. thanks to Karina at work for your contribution. It was gratefully accepted.

One thing learned from our observation of today is that ESWS file in head office may not necessarily be the complete file. After some gentle insistence that two families wanted to see the files held at Pyeontaek where their boys were born. They found some extra information at Pyeontaek that was not held or recorded in head office ESWS. In one case it was a letter from the birth mother. The other family found out that there was. I letter, but the birth mother had made contact with ESWS on a couple of occasions to enquire how her child was. There was some extra information the families found that in respect to their privacy I will not disclose, suffice it to say the information is very significant to the two boys concerned and the families are respecting the privacy of what was learned.

Fish at the Aquarium still nibble your fingers

What we learned is that like Australia, the paper trail does not end at the head office. The advice at ESWS. for adoptive families and children, is respectfully dig further. As you may find there are several locations where records are kept and the data within is not always duplicated faithfully. Seek the location where the child was born, there may be some part of the record there not kept in Seoul. If the child had some relationship,with another department, or health provider, go there and ask if it is possible to access records as long as you respect the laws, and rules of Korea and ESWS.

For me the hardest spa spect of the trip was to see the turmoil that the facility is experiencing. In part it is much like Australia. Funding and laws regarding how social services are controlled and delivered seem to be undergoing major restrutual changes. Often these changes are driven by ideals and it is left to the institutions to somehow adapt. Often. New laws and procedures cause conflict, demand facility closures, demand major reform with little guidance to achieve the ideals set out by legislation.

dinner anyone?

As I state, this is not unique to Korea. We in Australia have many dilemmas brought about by recent budget changes and legislative controls that greatly affect our delivery of social welfare services. Sometimes I with the Inuit approach of considering 7 generations ahead and 7 generations behind, may help negate the brashness of ideal driven decisions, especially those based on religious fundamentalism of any persuasion. Here ends my rant.

I feel for those at Pyeontaek. The single mothers home faces eminent closure as it is deemed a conflict of interest to offer support and counselling whilst being an adoption agency. The home for special needs children is now deemed over crowded. Sheltered workshops face cost pressures as those working are now meant to be getting above minimum wages. The facilities them selves are becom,I g dated and in need of expensive rebuilding and maintenance.

the staff at Pyeontaek are recognised as highly skilled, dedicated and well respected. I am sure ESWS wil exist well into the future, but like much of ?Korea will undergo huge transformation in the process. Some may feel a little sad to hear we have learned of the problems they face, but fro my perspective it only increases my respect for the work they have done and continue to do.

The day ended on a celebratory note as two families rejoiced in new knowledge about their children and their origin. A toast was raised to the good news and plans made for upcoming days when more families arrive from Melbourne and events coordinated whilst all together in Seoul.

Meanwhile for Liz i unwittingly sabotaged her plans for a day with Amelie. she was a little tired fro. The previous late evening, so Liz thought to take her to try some of the craft activities around the Bukcheon district. I reminded Amelie of the previous trip to Coex and the Aquarium. There were little fish that nibbled at her fingers and all sorts of naff places to put fish like toilet bowls, telephone booths and refrigerators.as I headed off with Mother to catch the bus to Pyeontaek, I'm sure I heard Liz mutter "thanks" through gritted teeth.

Turns out the best bit, according to Amelie was the Penguins. She could have watched them for hours.... And almost did. She is now officially taller than a penguin having finally surpassed even the lagers of the species, The Emporor Penguin.

Unfortunately for Liz, much of Coes is undergoing major, major renovation. This means she could not even console herself with a ,title self indulgent shopping. Two-thirds of the complex is currently off limits to consumerism. I think I'm not quite yet forgiven.

 

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The emotional roller Coaster Monday

Family portrait with President Kim, formal ESWS visit

Yesterday was the time for our formai visit to ESWS. Three other families from Victoria ( Bradbury, Triscari-Hunt & Merakis) were there on separately organised trips. However as we know each other well from Han-ho back home, it has been great to share the experience with them.

Amelie making gift to President Kim, ESWS. Note the respectful bow. We were so proud of her.

As their kids are thirteen, there was an opportunity for them to view their files. Unfortunately for the boys and their families there was nothing really new to learn. What was shared from the files at ESWS contained noting more than what families already new. They came away a little despondent.

Amelie is only 7 and we already knew her Foster mother could not meet due to ill health, for us this was not a fact finding visit, merely a chance to show Amelie's grandmother her home country. The girls were so happy to spend all the time possible looking in the nursery at the babies in ESWS. We are having such a great time in Korea, so no opportunity to meet foster family is disappointing, but our wishes are with her to get well.

After lunch we went home for a Nana in preparation for an attack on Lottee World. We don't have the likes in Australia a shopping complex so big that it sports department store, water park, amusement park and hotel all under one roof. It's kinda like Disney under lights... Oh did I mention there's a full size skating rink too?

I thought I was cheeky asking for a seniors discount, but we got one! Well when I say discount, ?Muvvas ticket actually said CHILD..... Who are they trying to kid? That ship has sailed, returned and been sold off for scrap long before the Vikings.

Once inside we realised why. On many rides there is both a height restriction and an age restriction. The upper limit is 65yo and they would not budge, no matter how much I tried to suggest her driving is far more dangerous than any ride. That argument probably would have worked to get dad on as he is mainly a passenger nowadays,

Even amelie had more trouble than expected all the outside rides had a 130cm height limit. Unfortunately she is not quite there yet. Still she loved the roller coaster with a loop, got drenched on the flume ride and had nightmares after the Sinbad ride, ok for kids but much too graphic for many. It should have a M rating at best.

It was at Lotte World that we had one of the weirdest meals possible. amongst the dishes ordered was chips that looked more like it was presented like wedges with sour cream, guacamole and tomatoe nachos sauce. Instead it was chips with bolognaise sauce and a sprinkle of dry Parmesan dusted on top. And the answer is yep about as good as it sounds.

We ended staying till stumps, about 10pm weekdays. Right up till then Amelie had plenty of energy, but as soon as she lost the glass slipper, quickly became sleeping beauty. We very nearly had to drag her home on the train asleep.

What surprised Muvva was the crowd. No matter how much we tried to convince her otherwise 10pm is the real rush hour in Seoul. It is when many office workers finally go home and students finally finish homework club, or second school too. It makes me wonder just how productive 14+ hours at work could possibly be. Still the look on her face at crowded trains at that hour brought more than a wry smile.... Told you so.

On return home we found messages on Skype, email etc that dad has some form of broken leg. He didn't want Muvva returning home prematurely, but as communication is brief to date, one is still greatly concerned. We are grateful, Amanda & Jon could get to Adelaide where he was flown by RFDS. Brother Peter has been involved too, so Mum is respecting Dads wish to stay till Thursday as originally planned. Hopefully more news will filter through and Skype will be possible. Our thought are with Dad for his operation tomorrow to pin the fracture.

 

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All the emotions

Just got news via email that Dad has had some sort of accident whilst in SA and is now in hospital,in Adelaide waiting on an operation for a broken bone in his leg.naturally messages like this are light on detail, but if any friends reading this blog and have my sisters mobile number can you please text her and advise we will keep,Skype on as much as possible to hear from her esp from 6pm AEST each night.

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The Whole 9 falls

Please note: we have returned to Seoul after 3 days largely without Internet. I have posted text for the 3 lost days and will add a few pics tomorrow when we have had tine to download and review the files from our cameras.

 

We woke to Muvva complaining of the beds. I have to admit the beds were harder than the floors at the Hanok. Amelie and Liz proved smart by sleeping on top of the doona for t tiny extra padding. Me I had drunk most of a bottle of Soju supposedly shared with Liz.

The biggest hit about the rooms was each had a spa..... In hindsight that is probably why we saw no more of mother, although I wonder what would have happened if she could not get out. We would have had another Whitney death in the bathtub, I guess.

 

Much to my disgust, but Amelie's delight, Liz suggested breakfast at Dunkin Donut. It sounds every bit a sickly sweet as you could imagine.... And that's the coffee.

 

I think that is why Muvva decided to provide the entertainment. Heading towards the bathroom, she became fascinated with the figures advertising male and female. It was about a metre tall silhouette split in half with each side displaying the sex one is to aim for. In her stupor she missed the little step hitting the ground like a sacked quarter back. Luckily neither skin or bones were broken. Perhaps a bruise or two, thankfully that was all.

 

A short walk followed to wear off some of the sugar. We visited the Andong Hemp shop. Fascinating. They appeared to be mainly outer Han bok garments, much like Formal Kimono in the rich decoration. The other abundant clothing seemed to be priestly vestments. Again the embroidery and decoration was impressive and lavish.

 

No trip to Andong, for a home brewer such as myself could resist visiting the home of Andong Soju. It is not rice wine, but I had thought it may have been made from starchy vegetables such as potato. The soju at Andong does seem to be made from a wheat mash malted and concentrated/dehydrated. This is then ground, mixed into a wash, fermented, then distiller.

 

The result is a clear liquid with a hint of sweetness to the spirit unlike whiskey that has less flavour until stored in oak barrels. This cask storage provides flavour and the golden colour of whiskey. Most soju is a colourless liquid served at a variety of concentrations depending on quality and age. Alcohol concentrations are roughly 45, 25, 12-15 percent concentration. at this stage I do not know how the Soju is aged as the higher concentrations are still clear. They simply have more of a gentle burn due to the higher alcohol content.

 

The. Used at the Soju Distillery, also covered food. Muvva observed that much of Asia has placed importance on the aesthetic presentation of food. It can have a high ceremonial value so presentation becomes important. It may cause interest that making "fake" food has become a big industry too. Replicas of famous dishes are replicated faithfully, usually in some form of resin material. The models are uncanny and loom as inviting as the real deal.

 

A mask started at the Mask ?Museum, HaHoe village and completed on the bus to Seoul

Most commonly these fake dishes are used as displays I. Restaurant windows making is very easy for dumb tourists, or illiterate people every opportunity to order from a visual menu. I am sure the display acts as good as any advertising, with the quality of display inducing people to come in. In museums it helps make displays very realistic, so you could imagine how impressive the feast presented to Queen Elizabeth II on her visit in 1999 was both I reality and recreation.

 

Our visit to Andong was completed by a trip out to the Hanji, or paper making area. Like many specialist paper areas in Korea, paper is made from Mulberry bark. Depending on how the cellulose material is treated, a great variety of products can be made. Fine paper, as we appreciate back home, hand made versions with a marbling effects, watermarks and decorative elements make very elaborate displays. papers amused in everything from screens, to wrappings.

 

A high grade form of board is also produced I. A huge range of products. dare I say it is a high grade papier mâché, but this does not do it credit. Very thing from figurines, to strong furniture is produced by this board. Many jewellery boxes, serving trays/tables and elaborate sideboards can be made for this material.

 

Finally elaborate materials and threads can be produced. From rough hessian like fibres to fine materials resembling cotton, or hemp clothing. Most commonly one sees, socks and underwear on sale as they are light and cool to wear against the skin, but at the Hanji centre some spectacular designer wear was on display in rich hues of naturally dyed fabrics.

 

Amelie really wanted to make paper as we did during out last trip. Unfortunately being a Sunday no paper making was in progress. Instead we contented ourselves with some of the manual crafty activities. We made scroll posters from scratch, making collage pictures and adding our own calligraphy. Finally the wooden scroll ends were added to allow display. Muvva ambitiously chose a water Lilly pattern that proved quite elaborate and showed just how long it has been since art class at school.

 

Judging by the fun all of us had creating our pieces, the activity easily made up for not making our own paper.

 

Our day finished by finally climbing aboard the bus to head home to Seoul. Again the bus trip is not as daunting as first thought. Much of the trip is on high speed expressway but there is enough to see of the countryside as we travel. If a mountain is encountered, no problem.... Tunnel through so no sharp bends or slowing down is required. such is the Korean way.

Return to Seoul was not to the Gangnam (yes, just like the song) bus terminal, but the other. We had already determined rather than depend on the subway, we should take the taxi. We were not fully cognisant of where this bus terminal is, nor could we easily see the rail link as at Gangnam so it turns out a taxi was the best option.

Mother still had the address card in her wallet so it proved no problem for the driver to enter thus into his ?gPS an off we went. The trip took about 39 mins and at least 15 kilometres, perhaps closer to 20. So guess how much the fare was as we alighted.... Yep 15000 won or a little over $15 Australian.

 

 

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A night on the floor

Well Muvva did it. Spent the night on the floor without a single drink.... That we know of, who knows what she smuggled in with her.

 

A night on the floor in the traditional Hanok proved not to be too much for mother we had the usual thin bed mattress and supplemented mother with a little camp mattress and she managed to sleep the entire night and stand up I. The morning. Perhaps that was the secret. She didn't have to get up I the middle of the night.

 

The Hanok owner proved to be most helpful and allowed us to leave our bags in the room while we further explored Hahoe village. We took the ferry across the river and climbed the cliffs overlooking the town to gain a wonderful early morning view of the village and surrounding area.

 

On return to the village a real wedding was almost beginning. Although Hahoe is a tourist village, it is also a living village. This time the wedding was not staged for tourists. Judging by the cars rolling in and parking in the village, not a kilometre away I the public area, I'd say this was a prestigious wedding too. The catering alone had all visitors hoping for a secret invite.

 

Soon it was time to leave. Catching the shuttle bus to the mask museum. Upon learning we were from Australia the ticket lady instead we head up to level 2. There turned out to be a display of Aboriginal Australian objects.

 

The lovely lady at tourist information wrote down instructions to the bus driver that we wanted to stop at the paper museum. He even nodded knowingly when shown the note. That knowing nod turned out to be, I won't let these foreigners tell me what to do, cos when we thought we saw the sign to the paper, he sailed last full throttle, obviously ignoring or request to stop. A pity for Amelie as this was the one place she wanted to see in Andong.

 

Instead we ended up in the centre of town, trying to locate the hotel Liz booked when no one around spoke English. Eventually we found the hotel, dumped bags in rooms and took a taxi back out to Bongjeongsa Temple to cross another off Muvvas bucket list. Bongjeongsa is not the biggest or most elaborate template, but it does boast the oldest building on Korea and features early I. The list of national treasures.

 

It was there that yet again we came across the disbelief that Amelie is with us after all we are westerners and she is obviously Korean. People were keen to learn that she is our adopted daughter and amazed that my mother is travelling with us. That are thanking us for adopting her. For us it is the opposite we thank Korea for allowing us to become parents.

 

Back in Andong city cam the opportunity to try the beef. Andong is rightly proud of the beef they produce. I'm sure the cattle here gave walked less than 50 steps in their entire life. The beef is heavily marbled with fat, tender and flavoursome. We chose the restaurant however because of the tables. This turned out to be the only one with chair height tables as mother could not cope with eating off the floor this time. It turned out to be just fine and a most beautiful "galbi" or Korean beef BBQ.

 

That proved to be the last we saw of Mucva. We have two rooms at the hotel and she has one all to herself. I think she relished the idea of a big bed and TV both under her exclusive control, not to mention a spa. If there are aching bones, they'll all be forgotten tomorrow.

 

 

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On the Road Again - Are you our housekeeper? Friday 19 Sep

Please note: we have returned to Seoul after 3 days largely without Internet. I have posted text for the 3 lost days and will add a few pics tomorrow when we have had tine to download and review the files from our cameras.

 

With the best of intentions for an early start, we left about half an hour later. This meant not quite making the connections Liz had designed for the bus to Andong, so we could try to make the mask performance at HaHoe village. Further delays were incurred locating correct intercity bus terminals and once in Andong, finding the bus terminus to take us out to HaHoe Village.Despite all this, we still managed to see the mask performance after all.

 

Gotta love the luxury coaches they have here in Korea. Where most coaches have a centre aisle with 4 seats a cross, the luxury liners here have only 3 large recliners across. Bliss..... Except when you are seated next to a seven year old.... Are we there yet? What a pity I didn't bring the noise cancelling headset.

 

Arriving at Andong bus station, the next difficulties were working out bus link to Hahoe village and from there, how to get 1.2klm from ticket office to the village, turns out there is a shuttle bus that runs roughly every 10 mins. Even then it's jam packed.

 

Time to relax and tour the village, right? Wrong, next comes working out where our Hanok Accommodation will be and if we can store bags. What's that, hmm the mask performance starts at two. Ok, good, we can leave our bags here and the man will Hanok will collect them for us. Great all we need do is walk 159 m that way.

 

Actually the mask performance was very entertaining. Traditional music, drums, gongs and a flute like instrument that sounds much like the chanter from a bagpipe, halfway through I was dragged up to dance. Apart from the question where are you from? The rest of the commentary was in Korean with moments of laughter, so what I think was said was watch how we get theses foreigners moving like the hippos from Fantasia. I must've been accurate cos Amelie laughed her head off at Abba.

 

The next game to play was wander the village looking for our bed. The map provided wasn't exactly accurate so matching it to real life proved a test. When we thought we found the right place no one was home and in the yard next door the people were disinterested. Besides the street numbers didn't match so why not try looking for them.... Well they didn't match any version of any map. We resorted to the phone. The owner came to save us and lead the weary party back to the place we suspected I the first place.... We recognised it by our bags sitting in the room.

 

Hanok are the traditional buildings of Korea. A number of buildings for a rough courtyard. Each wing is autonomous, generally following Confucian design with wings for each sex and a cooking area and storage. The living quarters have two sections, a more open, wooden floor sumner, or casual area and an inner more cloistered sleeping area. Paper doors allow the outside world to be closed out and heating us supplied under floor.

 

Thin mattresses are rolled out to sleep on with doonas of varying thickness seasonally adding to heat insulation. Will reserve judgement on the experience to the morning, when we see if mother can get herself off the floor. For me I'm quite toasty as I write this blog.

 

Dinner proved to be yummy. We had the famous Andong spicy chicken. Small pieces of chicken seemingly stirr fried with lots of fresh veggies, and spices, especially large chunk of dried chillies. It us the mixed in a soy sauce based sauce and list of noodles. It was home cooking at its best. Both delicious and filling. Muvva must be adapting too. She on,y complained of burning sensations around her mouth and ate more of the veggies and rice, but essentially ate what we ate. Well done Muvva, you are trying so hard.

 

Morning addendum, ask me if I was warm enough with the underfloor heating. Well I left my drink bottle on the floor and all I need do for a cuppa this morning was add a tea bag. Toasty!

 

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the ultimate gadget every self obsessed loser with a smart phone needs sis.. Yes we got one!

 

the Selfie Pole.... don't become a loser without one!

 

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