Please note: we have returned to Seoul after 3 days largely without Internet. I have posted text for the 3 lost days and will add a few pics tomorrow when we have had tine to download and review the files from our cameras.
We woke to Muvva complaining of the beds. I have to admit the beds were harder than the floors at the Hanok. Amelie and Liz proved smart by sleeping on top of the doona for t tiny extra padding. Me I had drunk most of a bottle of Soju supposedly shared with Liz.
The biggest hit about the rooms was each had a spa..... In hindsight that is probably why we saw no more of mother, although I wonder what would have happened if she could not get out. We would have had another Whitney death in the bathtub, I guess.
Much to my disgust, but Amelie's delight, Liz suggested breakfast at Dunkin Donut. It sounds every bit a sickly sweet as you could imagine.... And that's the coffee.
I think that is why Muvva decided to provide the entertainment. Heading towards the bathroom, she became fascinated with the figures advertising male and female. It was about a metre tall silhouette split in half with each side displaying the sex one is to aim for. In her stupor she missed the little step hitting the ground like a sacked quarter back. Luckily neither skin or bones were broken. Perhaps a bruise or two, thankfully that was all.
A short walk followed to wear off some of the sugar. We visited the Andong Hemp shop. Fascinating. They appeared to be mainly outer Han bok garments, much like Formal Kimono in the rich decoration. The other abundant clothing seemed to be priestly vestments. Again the embroidery and decoration was impressive and lavish.
No trip to Andong, for a home brewer such as myself could resist visiting the home of Andong Soju. It is not rice wine, but I had thought it may have been made from starchy vegetables such as potato. The soju at Andong does seem to be made from a wheat mash malted and concentrated/dehydrated. This is then ground, mixed into a wash, fermented, then distiller.
The result is a clear liquid with a hint of sweetness to the spirit unlike whiskey that has less flavour until stored in oak barrels. This cask storage provides flavour and the golden colour of whiskey. Most soju is a colourless liquid served at a variety of concentrations depending on quality and age. Alcohol concentrations are roughly 45, 25, 12-15 percent concentration. at this stage I do not know how the Soju is aged as the higher concentrations are still clear. They simply have more of a gentle burn due to the higher alcohol content.
The. Used at the Soju Distillery, also covered food. Muvva observed that much of Asia has placed importance on the aesthetic presentation of food. It can have a high ceremonial value so presentation becomes important. It may cause interest that making "fake" food has become a big industry too. Replicas of famous dishes are replicated faithfully, usually in some form of resin material. The models are uncanny and loom as inviting as the real deal.
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| A mask started at the Mask ?Museum, HaHoe village and completed on the bus to Seoul |
Most commonly these fake dishes are used as displays I. Restaurant windows making is very easy for dumb tourists, or illiterate people every opportunity to order from a visual menu. I am sure the display acts as good as any advertising, with the quality of display inducing people to come in. In museums it helps make displays very realistic, so you could imagine how impressive the feast presented to Queen Elizabeth II on her visit in 1999 was both I reality and recreation.
Our visit to Andong was completed by a trip out to the Hanji, or paper making area. Like many specialist paper areas in Korea, paper is made from Mulberry bark. Depending on how the cellulose material is treated, a great variety of products can be made. Fine paper, as we appreciate back home, hand made versions with a marbling effects, watermarks and decorative elements make very elaborate displays. papers amused in everything from screens, to wrappings.
A high grade form of board is also produced I. A huge range of products. dare I say it is a high grade papier mâché, but this does not do it credit. Very thing from figurines, to strong furniture is produced by this board. Many jewellery boxes, serving trays/tables and elaborate sideboards can be made for this material.
Finally elaborate materials and threads can be produced. From rough hessian like fibres to fine materials resembling cotton, or hemp clothing. Most commonly one sees, socks and underwear on sale as they are light and cool to wear against the skin, but at the Hanji centre some spectacular designer wear was on display in rich hues of naturally dyed fabrics.
Amelie really wanted to make paper as we did during out last trip. Unfortunately being a Sunday no paper making was in progress. Instead we contented ourselves with some of the manual crafty activities. We made scroll posters from scratch, making collage pictures and adding our own calligraphy. Finally the wooden scroll ends were added to allow display. Muvva ambitiously chose a water Lilly pattern that proved quite elaborate and showed just how long it has been since art class at school.
Judging by the fun all of us had creating our pieces, the activity easily made up for not making our own paper.
Our day finished by finally climbing aboard the bus to head home to Seoul. Again the bus trip is not as daunting as first thought. Much of the trip is on high speed expressway but there is enough to see of the countryside as we travel. If a mountain is encountered, no problem.... Tunnel through so no sharp bends or slowing down is required. such is the Korean way.
Return to Seoul was not to the Gangnam (yes, just like the song) bus terminal, but the other. We had already determined rather than depend on the subway, we should take the taxi. We were not fully cognisant of where this bus terminal is, nor could we easily see the rail link as at Gangnam so it turns out a taxi was the best option.
Mother still had the address card in her wallet so it proved no problem for the driver to enter thus into his ?gPS an off we went. The trip took about 39 mins and at least 15 kilometres, perhaps closer to 20. So guess how much the fare was as we alighted.... Yep 15000 won or a little over $15 Australian.
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